Thursday, April 19, 2012

Where Have All The Flowers Gone?

We stood at attention in a single row, red flag with a yellow star waving overhead and before us a monument to the Viet Cong who had served in either the French or American war or both.  We were surrounded by hundreds of graves that represented only a small number of the millions that were killed in those wars. This was a national military cemetery with graves meticulously positioned, not unlike Arlington or our military cemeteries across the country.  One by one we marched to a granite urn and placed three sticks of incense in the sand it cupped.  We saluted, perhaps not as sharp as we once were but with as much sincerity and respect as we ever had.  Some might not understand our demonstration of respect for our enemy.  They were tenacious and had earned our respect, and little by little, it was time to let it go.

Many who had been Viet Cong are still with us, and often they approached us on the street.  Smiling, they said, “I Cong.”  Then we shook hands, saluted one another and raised two fingers to form a “V”, the symbol for peace.

We all wished we had done more for the families, but we also knew that in reality we had helped them achieve a dream that they probably often thought to be unobtainable, particularly for Thuy who lives in a society where women owning property as significant as a house is rare.  The Habitat wrist bracelets from Vietnam say:  “I am a dream builder.”  That's why we came.  We accomplished our mission.

Our last dinner in My Tho brought our spirits to a peak.  Vietnamese food is a complex combination of innumerable ingredients that culminate in complex dishes mostly impossible to eat with chopsticks.  We could build a house but had we not begged for spoons, we would have starved.  There were exceptions.  Some of the guys are involved with organizations that bring them back to Vietnam on a regular basis.  Jack has aided in the effort to return the remains of those missing in action to America.  Francis is involved in a program to increase education.

Dinner ended.  We sat talking pretty much about what appears in this blog.  Then in predictable Asian style, karaoke broke out.  Our skills, for the most part, at using chopsticks and singing appear to be the same, except for Jack who does a nice job with both.  As the evening wore down it was time to pick a final song.  For this sing-a-long- we chose “Where Have the Flowers Gone?”  Locking arms and swaying, we sang, perhaps a little off key, but with all our hearts.  To end the dinner, without accompaniment, we sang “God Bless America.”  We left the restaurant a strong band of brothers and sisters.

Nights like that don't end easily.  We gathered on the roof top restaurant of our hotel with two new friends:  Chivas Regal and Crown Royal. We toasted our fallen brothers in mass.  Then we remembered those we knew personally by name and sadly acknowledged that there were far too many.  We agreed that we were able to perform as we did in the cemetery because those soldiers too would have rather been home with their families living peaceful lives than fighting us in the jungle; it was a political war and in a political war those who wage it do not fight it.  During the moment of silence we observed a calmness that seemed to shroud the city.

When will they ever learn? 

Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Honorary Veterans

I realized after I'd heard “When I got hit . . .” numerous times that it was spoken as a matter of fact and as nonchalantly as one might say “When I got up yesterday” or “When I got back from the store. . .”  Maybe that's what happens over time; physical wounds heal quicker than psychological ones.  The healing process was accelerated on this trip.

A second Habitat for Humanity Vietnam Veteran Build is in the works for next year.  At least half of this year's veterans are planning to return.  RM wants to bring his brother.  M wants to bring his father.  D and E are willing to return, but only if their wives come with them.  There is a lot of benefit to having non-veterans around.  They want to see how we react to the situations we are put in and ask questions about what it was like 40+ years ago.  There is a comfort in knowing that someone cares about what we went through and a great comfort in hearing the words, “Are you okay?”  We were fortunate to have angels with us that provided comfort.  I made them honorary veterans.  They were particularly present when AK 47 rounds shattered the silence in Cu Chi.  Here are their names:

Dr. Kenneth W. Bensen, (Ken)
President, State Support Organization Alliance, HFHI
President Emeritus, habitat for Humanity Michigan

Karen Bensen
Compliance Specialist, Great Lakes Capital Fund

Jason Vance
Habitat for Humanity of Michigan

Nicole Schafer
Habitat for Humanity of Michigan

Jean Kurttenbach

There is one more name on the roster not yet identified; his name is Scott.  Scott served in the Mediterranean and sported a comforting voice and a reassuring smile throughout the trip.  Since he is already a veteran, I now declare him an honorary Vietnam Veteran.  Thank you, Scott.

Scott Parsley
E-5 Navy, USS John F Kennedy, Aviation Fuels, 1970-73
Home Base Norfolk, VA


The guys told many stories naming those who the stories were about.  Far too many ended with, “He was killed at . . .”  There was always a quiet pause when those words were spoken.  One of the major guilt of war is survivor guilt; asking yourself why it was him and not you.  The pat answer is that we were spared to do something greater.  Our response is:  that's ludicrous.  Almost sixty thousand Americans died in Vietnam, and each was special in his own way.  We were all in it together then, and we are all in it together now--veterans and non-veterans alike.  Rarely is there a sense of brotherhood like the one bonded by war, and we are very fortunate to have each other and to have had our angels with us.

Friday, April 13, 2012

Today's photos

At the market

Dick Moyer and the family cat


Ezra at work

Dick Moyer hanging out with a neighbor


A happy Thuy returning to her home

MIA

Two names are missing from the list in the last post. One of them belongs to a vet who missed the bus on the first day of work and eventually the dinner when everyone else signed the e-mail sheet.  He doesn't appear to be hanging out where the rest of us are, so he'll remain missing in action until breakfast tomorrow.

The other is Dick Moyer.  Dick is concerned that no one will believe he's in Vietnam because he, like all of us, has gained rather than lost weight on this trip.  It’s hard to believe with the high temperatures and the physical labor it takes to build a brick house when cement mixers and most other tools that would be at your disposal in the States are not available here.  We cut bricks in half by holding a short piece of re-bar against the brick and striking it with a hammer.  A wet saw would be a luxury, except there is no electricity.  I found that a half brick tied to a string makes a perfectly fine plumb bob for plumbing windows.  A five-gallon gerry can cut in half diagonally makes two nice size scoops.  Cement bags are opened carefully then torn into strips to be used as bands to lift bricks six at a time to the top of the scaffold.  Nothing is wasted; materials just take different forms depending on where we are in the build.

My apologies to Dick.  He has been a tremendous asset to the team.  Here is his service record and contact information.

Richard (Dick) Moyer, Sgt., Army “Airborne”, Co. F 51st Infantry, Long Range Patrol (LRRP), Co. P, 75th Ranger Regiment, Bien Hoa-Long Binh, Quang Tri, 1968-69.

I will continue to search for the last MIA tomorrow.  I'll also add contact information for the non-veterans; they are honorary veterans now.

Thursday, April 12, 2012

Two weeks is not enough

Two weeks is not enough time to pull together what happened 40+ years ago and wrap it in a neat package with all the other things that have happened to us in our civilian lives.  Vietnam just hangs out there refusing to drop off the radar.  Some still rank it first on the list of traumatic events; for others, it has dropped to number three or four, but for all of us, it still seems to hold in the top three.

We are a day and a half from finishing the build, then after a day in Saigon, we'll return home.  Most of us are beginning to think about coming back next year.  The build will be much further North, in more temperate climes and near the site of many of the major battles where some of the guys served.

Studies have begun on the effects of Agent Orange and PTSD on the Vietnamese.  Though not apparent on the streets, it is rumored that there is a high incidence of birth defects and other critical illnesses due to exposure to dioxins.  Cu Chi, site of the famous tunnel systems, is now a young forest.  In 1972, it was bare.  Bomb craters covered the area, and Agent Orange had completely defoliated the trees.  Much of the areas around Saigon are and were the same.  What a price to pay to protect our headquarters--for both sides.

Of the 30 on the build, 16 of us served in country. Our assignments ran the gambit from clerk to search and destroy.  Humor, perhaps sometimes inappropriate humor, hints that though most of the pain is gone there will always be at least a little remaining.  As we laid bricks in the beating sun, a tedious, repetitive process, one of the guys uttered, “They came down a lot faster than they go up.”  It will take a lifetime to ease the pain of what happened 40+ years ago.

Those on the build who served in country are:

Tom Chap, Army, MACV “D” Company Supply, Long Binh, 1970-71

Vic Romback, USAF CCK Taiwan, 776 Tactical Airlift Squadron, C-130 Loadmaster, 1966-70

Jim Forbes, Army, 2nd Signal Group, Aviation Detachment, Long Than North, 1969-70

Francis Love, Army, Platoon Leader, Infantry, Civil Affairs Psychological Operations Officer, 199 Light infantry Brigade, Long Binh, Nhe Be, 1966-67

Neal Pointer, Army, 21st Signal Corps, Long Binh, 1971-72

Dan Sauter, USMC, Ist Marine Air Wing (Wing Motor T), Mag 39 Fuel Truck Driver, 2nd Bn 23 Marines 4th Marine Division, 106 Recoiless Rifles, Reserve, 1968-70

Steve Klarich, USN-CB, CBMU-301, Dong Ha, 1968-69

Gerard (Jerry) Brabant, Army, 1st Logistics Saigon Support Command, 520/537 PSC, Bien Hoa, 1970-71

C.E. Thompson (Ed), USMC, 3rd Marine Division, 11th Engineer Bn., Dong Ha, 1967-68

Roger Doyon, Army, 62 Transport, Lon Binh 1967-68

Richard (Doc) Small, Army, 1/505 3/82nd Airborne, Bn. Surgeon, 24th Evav Hospital, Long Binh, 1968-69

John L. Harris, USMC, (AKA Sgt. Harry) 1st Marine Division, 9th Combat Engineer Bn., Chu Lai, 1966-67

Jack G. Devine, USAF (SSGT) Motion Picture Editor, 600 Photo Sqdr. @ Phan Rang 1967; 601 Photo Sqdr. @ Takhli, Thailand 1968-69

Dud Hendrick, Army, 7th A.F. E.O.A., Mobile Team, Phan Rang, Tan Son Nhut, 1966-67


Tuesday, April 10, 2012

More photos

How many Habitat volunteers does it take to change a tire?

Drying rice


Girlfriends


Snack time


Richard Small, Ken Bensen,John Harris, Dick Moyer, Dud Hendrick, Stece Klarich and Jean Kurtenbach take a needed break from the hot Vietnam sun.

My Tho River

Typical housing in My Tho - a clear need for Habitat


Monday, April 9, 2012

Build Photos

Left to right:  Steve, Dick, John, Thi (homeowner) Ed, Jason, Dud

Ed mixes mortar

Home at the end of the path


Dick Moyer on Vietnam's National Television

Dick Moyer in a B-52 bomb crater

Richard Small paints a shutter

Jerry Brabant coming down the trail from the build

Steve with neighborhood children:  Say "cheese!"

How did the photo turn out?


Names on the Wall

The morning began with unusual jocularity.  Perhaps because we were beginning to get to know each other, or perhaps because it was Friday, and we were facing two days off.  Snippets were developing into anecdotes and occasionally into full-fledged stories.  We had sparred enough to fall into a comfortable banter, accepting the fact that we had been here together forty years ago.  I could sense the beginning of a bonding much like the one we had during the war.  As the minibus dodged one moped after another, one of the vets pulled out his iPod and a small tower speaker the size of a cracker package.  The sounds of “Running on Empty” filled the bus.  We sang along, miserably out of tune.

Our language patterns reverted back to the war years.  Expletives, always to be expected on a construction site, were replaced with “Choi oi; or “choi duc.”  That Vietnamese man or Vietnamese woman once again became papasan or mamasan.  “You number one G.I.” (good) and “You number ten G.I.” (bad) worked its way back into our speech patterns.

Our homeowner continues to amaze us.  Thi, pronounced “twee” is a single parent of two daughters, one fourteen and one nine.  She is at the site when we arrive and works harder than any homeowner I've seen and harder than us.  Her husband was killed in an accident, and her house is being built on his family land.  It will be twelve feet wide and twenty seven feet long, skim coated brick with a fiberglass roof.

Beside it is a lean-to, the “house” the three of them live in now.  Four bamboo poles hold up two tarps.  Three more tarps form the sides and the back.  The front is open.  It is furnished with a chest of drawers, a small chest, a bed frame with no mattress and an altar that displays a photograph of her late husband flanked by two vases stuffed with incense.  Crayon drawn artwork is taped to the tarp over the bed.  The kitchen is in a shed four feet from the lean-to.  There is water, but there is also a meter; we surmise Thi cannot afford to use the water too often.  The tarps bake in the hot sun.  When it rains, there is no place to hide.

Thi brings us sour water from the stream that runs through the village to mix mortar for the bricks. The sun starts beating down.  The iPod with its Goliath speaker cranks up and we juke, jive and lay bricks to the songs of Bob Dylan, Carol King and Rod Stewart, returning to the sixties together.  Then a song I have never heard begins.  In a soft melodic voice, a woman sings about names on a wall. The words described how once those names had lived, they had breathed, they had families, now they are names on a wall.  I realized she was singing about the wall in Washington DC where the names of sixty thousand Americans killed in Vietnam are etched in black granite.  I swallowed hard, suppressing the anger that was building inside; at least most of it.

This is the story of RM.  RM was a LRRP- long range reconnaissance patrol.  He has three Purple Hearts, but none of his wounds were of the “million dollar” kind--the kind that got you sent home.  It is Saturday, and we are in Cu Chi.  The Cu Chi tunnels are a huge tourist attraction; Disneyland on a Vietnamese scale.  The tunnels are famous because of their size and complexity; a network of tunnels over 200 kilometers long that provided access to underground bunkers, a kitchen, mess hall, armory and a clinic. Craters formed by hundreds of bombs dropped from B-52s mar the landscape.  Yet the tunnels held up.

The paths we walked at Cu Chi were the paths RM patrolled in 1969 and 1970. After his first wound, he was treated and returned to his unit.  He was assigned to a team for the next morning’s patrol.  His best friend stepped up and asked that he go instead, to give RM a little more time to recuperate. The team was inserted the next morning.  Thirty five minutes later, RM's best friend was dead, and there was one more name to add to the wall:  Ray Enzie.

 If you would like to follow Neal’s personal blog, it’s here:  http://shootingfromthehip.net/

Thursday, April 5, 2012

So who’s writing this blog anyway?

Neal Pointer was drafted on Christmas Eve Day of 1969.  He began a one year tour in April, 1971 in the Republic of South Vietnam, as a combat photographer. 
Once again, Neal was drafted – this time to write a blog about his experiences during a very special Habitat for Humanity Global Village trip.  This is a blog about the fourteen short days when 20+ US Vietnam veterans joined together to build a Habitat home for a widowed mother of two girls in the Province of Tien Giang, city of My Tho, Vietnam.  
After volunteering for eight years building Habitat houses, Neal believes that affordable houses should be an opportunity for all deserving families around the world, not an unreachable dream.
Here’s Neal at a Veterans Day celebration at Dallas Area Habitat for Humanity.  (Neal is the old guy in cammo!)
If you would like to follow Neal’s personal blog, it’s here:  http://shootingfromthehip.net/

Wednesday, April 4, 2012

War is a two way street

We were too busy as the imperial force in the Vietnam War, or so we thought, to bother with those who fought beside us; citizens of our territories like Guam and Puerto Rico, Aussies, Kiwis, Canadians and, of our close buddies, the ARVNs.  ARVNs were the mostly, if not totally, conscripted young men of South Vietnam who, unlike us, had first-hand knowledge of the tenacity, ruthlessness and fierce fighting nature of the North Vietnamese Army.

We fought two enemies:  the NVA and Viet Cong, the VC.  Though not as well equipped or trained, they were feared because of tactics that had been perfected over decades of fighting; jungle fighting, guerrilla fighting.  It was the VC that the villagers harbored and fed at night while professing to despise them during the day.  Not keeping a cache of food concealed under the floor of a hootch often led to death.  The VC walked among us and in many cases worked for us.  During one body count, it was discovered that one of the VC was the compound barber.  I suspect that was common.

This is the story of “A”, a former member of the Army of South Vietnam.  He was an American-trained door gunner on a fixed wing assault airplane.  “A” is outgoing.  His sense of humor is fraught with irony, until you take him back to the years following the fall of Saigon.

“A” suffers the deepest guilt of any veteran of the war I've met.  When we talked, his voice shrank into a hoarse whisper, bowing his head, so I could not see his tears.  “I killed my own people,” he said.  Under orders from the South Vietnamese military, which were under orders of the American military, he knew that many of attacks would result in the deaths of “friendlies,” many of whom could be members of his own family.

When Saigon fell, his immediate family was torn apart by the North's “re-education” program.  Party officials would stop him and, after brief torture, would discover that he served as an ARVN.  They beat him, stole his money and took anything they wanted.  He finally immigrated to the US.  I asked him how he felt about living in the country that for whatever reason had caused him so much pain. “I forgive the United States.  They tried to help us.  I would never come back here except that my father is on life-support, and I must decide whether it is to continue.”

As difficult as it is to make sense of the war, even more difficult is the attempt to comprehend the complexities of the impact it made on those of us who fought it.  In our lives, it was who we became; the context in which we lived.  If the experience hadn't caused us to redefine ourselves, how we were treated by society would have.  I thought before the journey began that the one word that might surface repeatedly would be tears.  And one word has:  guilt.

If you would like to follow Neal’s personal blog, it’s here:  http://shootingfromthehip.net/

Hard at work or hardly working?

Here are some pictures from the Vietnam Veterans Build worksite.  The photos are compliments of Ezra Millstein, Staff Photographer for Habitat for Humanity International.  Ezra is producing a video of the Veterans Build - we can't wait to see the video! 

If you want to see more of Ezra's work, look at his website:  http://www.ezramillstein.com/.


Steve Klarichin

Vic Romback

Scott Parsley
Neighbor's daughter
Ezra Millstein

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Introduction to Habitat for Humanity and Vietnam

Habitat for Humanity International created a journal about poverty, housing and Habitat’s response for the Vietnam Veteran Build participants.  I’d like to share some key points with you.

Background
Habitat for Humanity’s presence in Vietnam began in Danang, central Vietnam, in 2001. Now, Habitat for Humanity Vietnam specializes in integrated shelter solutions, water and sanitation, and disaster response and mitigation in partnership with the local government and microfinance institutions around the country.

Housing needs in Vietnam
An emerging middle-income country, Vietnam has made impressive progress in reducing poverty.  Official data shows that the poverty rate fell from 58.1 percent in 1993 to 9.45 percent in 2010.  Towns and cities are growing because of rapid urbanization driven by economic development.  Around 25 percent of housing stock is classified by the government as substandard or temporary.

Habitat’s response
Habitat for Humanity Vietnam mobilizes material and financial resources and volunteer labor to build or repair houses with vulnerable families.  Habitat partner families help to build their own house and contribute to its cost, typically through a housing microfinance loan.  Their repayments go toward a fund, which enables more families to build or improve their homes.  Habitat builds the capacity of local government, partner families and their communities through training and skills development.

Take action
One of Habitat’s mission principles is to put global shelter needs on the hearts and minds of all people. Out of this knowledge and conviction comes action.  Get involved in our veterans initiative by spreading the word and advocating for Habitat’s continued support to families abroad and in communities at home.

To learn more about how you can take action at habitat.org/takeaction

For more information about Habitat for Humanity in Vietnam:  http://www.habitatvietnam.org/


Monday, April 2, 2012

Looking back over forty-one years

An eerie karma began to develop in the days preceding my return to Vietnam.  First, a fortune cookie read, “You'll be traveling to exotic places.”  Then came the realization that it was forty one years to the day that the last American troops were withdrawn from Vietnam.  It was the anniversary of the conviction of Lt. William L. Calley for the murder of twenty two civilians at My Lai. President Obama proclaimed March 29, 2012, as Vietnam Veterans Day, a national day that finally recognizes the sacrifices of American soldiers in Vietnam.  And my arrival day was slated to be April Fools’ Day.

Vietnam has always been an enigma.  We didn't understand why we were here or why Congress tied our hands behind our backs, making decisions that generals should have been making.  Vietnam was a war of firsts.  It was the first war without front lines, the first war that played itself out on national television and the first war America lost.  We, who fought it, don't believe we lost it; we just believe we went home.  There is a common saying some of us have to the comment that we lost the war:  “We were winning when I left.”

I never intended for this blog to be a waltz down memory lane.  But to understand what happened forty plus years ago, that caused a pain so deep, that so many have returned so far to find closure, can only be told in the context of “What did you do it the war?”  I expected to land at Tan Son Nhut Airbase, go to the hotel and hear the first of the war stories, but the stories didn't wait for me to get to Saigon; they began in Japan with two veterans who are not even on the Habitat build.  We missed our connecting flight and that eerie karma appeared again.  Here, Neal, is a foreshadowing of what you can expect. (I won't use names here, or throughout the blog.  If your story shows up, it is because I feel it serves as a link to hopefully make sense of what we've been through and why we are here.)

D's story  
D served as a door gunner on an assault gunship.  These were the bad boys, the ones depicted in Apocalypse Now, the ones standing in the open doors of Hueys pounding the ground with M-60 machine guns, the ones that get way too much footage in any movie about the Vietnam War.  D’s wife is Vietnamese.  They were on their way to Vietnam to attend her father's funeral in Chu Chi, but may not make it since we were delayed.  D is a large man but stooped by age and his past.  He says little; she does the talking.  I could tell she adored him and he her.  Someone at the table asked about his experience in Vietnam. “He mean.  He real mean.  You don't want to see him coming,” referring to him as a door gunner.  D sat looking at a concoction of what was supposed to be shrimp with rice, then looked into my eyes and said, “Three Purple Hearts.”  His eyes were deep set, puffy and dark.  His mustache drooped at the ends of his lips to his chin.  It appeared that he was looking at nothing.  Then he uttered, “PTSD.”

They left the table, he in a wrinkled black suit, white shirt, no tie and white sport socks and black dress shoes, she in a woolen suit suitable for a funeral.  As he passed me, he said, “If it hadn't been for her, I would have killed myself.”

If you would like to follow Neal’s personal blog, it’s here:  http://shootingfromthehip.net/